Oh my, now I know what real cold is!
Let me hasten to reassure. This is not West Cork. This is nowhere near Ireland. Just before Christmas we took a quick trip to Lithuania. Right now it's cheaper to fly there than it is to take the train to Dublin. Really! And we so wanted to see something other than rain, sodden fields, rain, wet grass, rain, dripping trees.
And did we just about get that! Dear heaven, I will never complain about what I considered cold days in Ireland again! Many degrees below zero here in the main street of Vilnius, and a wind from Siberia via Belarus driving freezing, iron-hard ice crystals against your face. Was extremely glad I'd brought my lined ski cap and cashmere cowl. Needed both of them. And more.
Here is another view of Vilnius by night. It's beautiful. Spectacular old buildings, onion domes, archways, wedding-cake Baroque splendour, and very little traffic. (Well you wouldn't drive in that weather unless you had to.)
Caught a glimpse of this beautiful Aran-style jacket in the window of a linen shop (linen being Lithuania's other main export). It looks for all the world like the one worn by Cameron Diaz in The Holiday.
Shop was shut at the time unfortunately, so couldn't check it out.
And there were even smaller establishments selling handknits too.
Elderly ladies like this one would come into town every morning early from their villages and set out their wares, socks and gloves knitted with loving care. It was a long hard day in that freezing cold and bitter wind, but they kept their posts and even managed to smile for potential customers. I'll remember her when the next Sock Madness starts and I'm whinging about not having exactly the right colourway or fibre.
I had a special mission on this trip, and it involved searching out the best yarn shop in all of Lithuania (naturally!)
This is Mezgimo Zona or the Crafty Place. And thanks to Ravelry, I had a friend to meet there.
Virginija lives in Vilnius. She's also on Ravelry (virginute) and her colourwork would make you ashamed to claim to be a knitter.
I had some commissions from friends for various yarns and Virginija guided me towards the right ones for mittens, lace shawls, and more. And then we went for coffee and were able to talk about so many things. My Lithuanian is practically non-existent but Virginija's English was, thankfully, far better, so I was able to find out what life was like before 1991 when they finally became independent. It made me thoroughly ashamed of the way we complain in Ireland about weather and politics and annoyances generally. Try living in Eastern Europe during Iron Curtain days and you might have more reason to complain. But it really is marvellous to be able to exchange ideas and thoughts and ask questions in strange countries. That way you make real contact.
I was even introduced to the best thrift store (a favourite occupation of mine in foreign cities) and Virginija pointed out that if I wanted nice leather buttons for a new knit (as I did) it was actually far cheaper to buy an entire coat and snip off the buttons than to go shopping for those expensive little items alone. Which I did! On that particular day, at a cost of all of one Lita (about 25c). It was a truly hideous black and white tweed coat that had seen better days, but it had not only twelve beautiful black leather buttons but also twelve tiny flat ones, sewn on at the back. And a buckle on the belt too. (Yes, yes, the coat went back to the shop. Nothing wasted, nothing thrown away. 'You learned to be very thrifty in Soviet times,' said Virginija soberly. Rest of the world, take note and learn.)
We walked under the bare black branches of trees in the park and shivered to see the castle on the hill above with the wind and snow howling around it. Rather grateful to be staying within the thick walls of an old nunnery (Domus Maria) rather than an ancient castle, however historic. You could just imagine those tapestries flapping and the icy draughts caressing bare shoulders as the banquet progressed and the minstrels tried to keep their fingers warm enough to play.
These cheery birchwood elves look happy enough to be outdoors. It's a nice idea and one I might copy myself next winter. Wonder how they would take to endless mist and rain though?
Even getting back on the plane for the flight home was an endurance test. You stood in that warm building and saw everyone in front of you donning coats, hats, gloves in preparation for the short walk across the tarmac. 'Is that really necessary?' I wondered out loud. I soon found out!
Absolutely adored Vilnius. Glorious architecture, lovely people, delightful food (dined in this most atmospheric restaurant down in brick-lined cellars). Its name, Lokys, means The Bear, and yes, there are still bears in Lithuania. Next time, next time...
Back home it was all systems go for the Christmas rush. This is the final result of the Advent Scarf KAL organised by Zemy on Ravelry. The angora/merino was so cosy I was most reluctant to take it off to give to its intended recipient! Every day of Advent brought a different Aran pattern so you had got plenty of practice in the technique by Christmas Eve.
And this is a little Norwegian-style cape for a small friend aged just 15 months. Crochet is much quicker than knitting and I was able to get this whipped up in a few evenings.
Sophy Wackles tried her best to help on a shorter neckwarmer-style Aran scarf in scarlet alpaca, but she still hasn't got the hang of cabling without an extra needle which makes her rather slow. Never mind, slow and steady wins the race, doesn't it, Sophy?
Regrettably, the cats are more interested in the machinery than the manipulation. The skein winder fascinated them both and now each morning they have a few energetic minutes turning it, just to flex up their paws.
They are both working hard for their Yarnslayer badges though, and hope to be able to wear these with pride in the New Year.
And finally, as a good wish for that same New Year, here is a picture to make you smile through the clearing up and the tidying away and the wondering what the future holds.
Wockin' Aroun' Da Cat-Mas Tree...